Alterations
Everybody feels good when wearing a well fitted
garment. It really doesn’t matter what
shape you are because a well fitted garment will compliment any figure. You may
have a garment you love, if only it fitted properly.
In my own past experience, I have come across certain issues
when it comes to purchasing clothes. For
instance I have always had to buy a label size up to accommodate for sleeve
length. If I had bought the correct
size, then the sleeves would be too short. Some may come across the problem of
buying trousers which have a perfect fit on the waist, but the trouser length
is too long, or the hem width too wide.
There are many scenarios of fitting problems when it comes to buying
garments.
This blog is to bring you easy step by step instructions on
simple alterations you can perform on friends, family or your own garments.
Equipment required:
Sewing machine
Steam Iron
Sleeve board (optional) – useful for pressing sleeve or
trouser hem.
Sharp pointed pair of small scissors – for trimming and
snipping.
Dressmakers shears (scissors) – to cut away larger excess bits
of fabrics.
Pins with large heads – to pin fabric in place.
Hand sewing needles – for hand sewing.
Thimble- protect fingers.
A dress makers stitch unpick- used to unpick stitches.
Thread – for stitching.
Tailors chalk or fabric marking pencils – to mark lines.
Tracing wheel and dress makers tracing paper – useful for marking
stitch lines on lightweight fabrics.
Tape measure or ruler - for measuring.
Tip – a used firm bar
of soap which has become quite flat, can also be used to replace tailors
chalk.
Taking Up Trouser
Hems
- Firstly mark the length you wish your trousers to be, by pinning into place. Please note: if the trousers are to be worn with specific shoes, it is essential to wear those shoes when determining your hem length.
Once you
are satisfied with the length you can move on to the next stage.
- Remove the trouser and place onto a flat surface. Measure each trouser leg to make sure they are the same length. Mark with your tailors chalk, the hemline using a ruler or tape measure to ensure an even measurement all around the hem.
- Using a running stitch, tack along the chalk line.
- Once marked, press out original trouser hem crease line.
- Turn trouser inside out and press turning up.
- Placing trouser on a flat surface, mark another line 2.5cm (1”), above your existing tack line. (The new line should be marked on the fabric which is turned up).
7. Measure 1.5cm (5/8”) from your second tack
line. Mark with chalk. Using your dress maker’s
shears/scissors, carefully cut along this chalk line.
8. Fold the cut edge over and press along the
second tack line. You should now have
two pressed lines. Remove the tack
thread lines.
9. Pin the pressed line in place. Tack into place with stitches next to the
fold line but not actually on the fold line (roughly about 2mm (1/8”) through
all layers of fabric.
10. Continuing to work on the wrong side of the
trouser, using matching thread, machine stitch as close as possible to tacked
line. I have used a contrasting thread for your easy viewing.
11. Remove tack thread.
If stitching by hand, with matching thread, catch stitch between
the hem and fabric. See instructions and
diagram below.
Catch Stitching an Invisible Hem
The invisible hem stitch or blind
hem stitch is hidden between the hem and the fabric. The two layers are joined by a row of
stitches which zigzag from one side to the other, taking tiny bites from the
two sides of fabrics as you sew along.
It is used to hem light to medium-weight fabrics.
Notice how the needle catches a
single weave of the trouser fabric.
Now note a
slightly larger pinch of hem fabric.
Shortening sleeves
The principles are the same as
hemming trousers. Follow the Taking up Trouser Hem instructions.
www.strosecouture.com will be
officially open for business on the 24th April 2012.
The website will be offering
corsets and more. From the 24th April
2012, all corsets will be half price for a limited period. Please note:
Our corsets are not mass produced and a custom facility will be
available.
If you have found this blog
helpful please leave a comment. Should
you require additional help with your alterations please feel free to email
us: costumier1969@gmail.com.
Coming soon…
Next blog; Narrowing Trouser Legs.
